Monday, July 17, 2023

New & Upcoming Classic Film Books (21)

Hoo boy! Do I have a list of new classic film books for you! It took me a few weeks to gather this list and its finally here. I'm very impressed with what TCM/Running Press and University Press of Kentucky have coming up in their Fall catalogs. There are lots of good paperback editions of some big releases notably the Paul Newman memoir, the Elizabeth Taylor biography and Mark Vieira's George Hurrell's Hollywood. 

Are you new to my list? Here are the details. The books include biographies, memoirs, scholarly texts, coffee table books and more from a variety of publishers. For any scholarly books I make sure the ones included are affordable. There are also some reissues and paperback editions added to the bunch. Publication dates range from July to December 2023 and these are subject to change. These are U.S. release dates. International release dates and availability may vary.

Links go to Amazon, Barnes and Noble and Powell's. I receive a small commission if you shop through some (not all) of my buy links. 


I would love to hear what you think? Which books are you putting on your wishlist?


JULY



9780063026391
Bogie & Bacall
The Surprising True Story of Hollywood's Greatest Love Affair
by William J. Mann
Harper
656 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781541700673
**Paperback Edition**
Agent Josephine
American Beauty, French Hero, British Spy 
by Damien Lewis
PublicAffairs
512 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780813198408
**Paperback Edition**
Clarence Brown
Hollywood's Forgotten Master
by Gwenda Young
Foreword by Kevin Brownlow
University Press of Kentucky
454 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780806541945
The Exorcist Legacy
50 Years of Fear
by Nat Segaloff
Citadel
352 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780593467718
**Paperback Edition**
The Extraordinary Life of an Ordinary Man
A Memoir
by Paul Newman
edited by David Rosenthal
Foreword by Melissa Newman
Vintage
320 pages — July 2023




9798887712376
Lena Horne: The M-G-M Years
Hollywood’s First Black Star
by Stephen Bourne
Bear Manor Media
120 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble




9781538183892
The Monster Movies of Universal Studio
by James L. Neibaur
Rowman & Littlefield Publishers
228 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781477327333
Selling Science Fiction Cinema
Making and Marketing a Genre
by J.P. Telotte
University of Texas Press
192 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781951213794
Still Laughing
A Life in Comedy 
From the Creator of Laugh-in 
by George Schlatter with Jon Macks
Foreword by Lily Tomlin
Afterword by Goldie Hawn
The Unnamed Press
239 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781803990354
When Harry Met Cubby
The Story of the James Bond Producers
by Robert Sellers
The History Press
352 pages — July 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




AUGUST



9781493062850
Becoming Nick and Nora
The Thin Man and the Films of William Powell and Myrna Loy 
by Rob Kozlowski
Applause Books
256 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781493074884
Breaking the Code
Otto Preminger Versus Hollywood's Censors
by Nat Segaloff
Applause
288 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780711283657
Clint Eastwood
The Iconic Filmmaker and his Work
by Ian Nathan
White Lion Publishing/Quarto Group
176 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781631495809
Daughter of the Dragon
Anna May Wong's Rendezvous with American History 
by Yunte Huang
Liveright
400 pages — August 2023






9780813197913
Designing Hollywood
Studio Wardrobe in the Golden Age 
by Christian Esquevin
University Press of Kentucky
256 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781474474009
**Paperback Edition**
Diana Dors
Film Star and Actor
by Martin Shingler
Edinburgh University Press
176 pages — August 2023




9780813197883
Eleanor Powell
Born to Dance
by Paula Broussard and Lisa Royère
University Press of Kentucky
360 pages — August 2023




 9781648230356
Gary Cooper
Enduring Style
by G. Bruce Hoyer
Foreword by Ralph Lauren
Afterword by Maria Cooper Janis
powerHouse Books
200 pages — August 2023




9781399066952
James Stewart at War
His Career in the USAAF 
by Pavel Türk
Air World
224 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780813199276
Monsters on Maple Street
The Twilight Zone and the Postwar American Dream
by David J. Brokaw
University Press of Kentucky
280 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781496846051
Starmaker
David O. Selznick and the Production of Stars in the Hollywood Studio System
by Milan Hain
University Press of Mississippi
320 pages — August 2023




9780813198088
Strictly Dynamite
The Sensational Life of Lupe Velez 
by Eve Golden
University Press of Kentucky
488 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781476687254
Theda Bara
Her Career, Life and Legend
by Roy Liebman
McFarland
120 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780813198019
The Warner Brothers
by Chris Yogerst
Foreword by Michael Uslan
University Press of Kentucky
360 pages — August 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's





SEPTEMBER



9781641609227
Bing and Billie and Frank and Ella and Judy and Barbra
by Dan Callahan
Chicago Review Press
400 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's





9781623717148
Chaplin
The Tramp's Odyssey 
by Simon Louvish
Interlink Publishing Group
464 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781493076062
Double Solitaire
The Films of Charles Brackett and Billy Wilder
by Donald Brackett
Applause
312 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780762484621
**Revised Edition**
Edith Head 
The Fifty-Year Career of Hollywood's Greatest Costume Designer 
by Jay Jorgensen
Running Press
400 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780063067660
**Paperback Edition**
Elizabeth Taylor
The Grit & Glamour of an Icon
by Kate Andersen Brower
Harper Paperbacks
512 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781911397625
The Final Curtain
Obituaries of Fifty Great Actors
by Michael Coveney
foreword by Sam Mendes
Unicorn Publishing Group
256 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780762484607
**Revised Edition**
George Hurrell's Hollywood
Glamour Portraits, 1925-1992
by Mark A. Vieira
Foreword by Sharon Stone 
Running Press
416 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781978806504
Ideal Beauty
The Life and Times of Greta Garbo
by Lois W. Banner
Rutgers University Press
286 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781636810850
John Waters
Pope of Trash
by John Waters
Academy Museum of Motion Pictures
256 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780762481682
Kid Noir
Kitty Feral and the Case of the Marshmallow Monkey  
by Eddie Muller and Jessica Schmidt
illustrated by Forrest Burdett
Running Press Kids and TCM
32 pages — September 2023




9781477328330
**Paperback Edition**
Making the Best Years of Our Lives
The Hollywood Classic That Inspired a Nation
by Alison Macor
University of Texas Press
208 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble




9780228018681
Queer Film Classics: Anders als die Andern
by Ervin Malakaj
McGill-Queen's University Press
176 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780228018780
Queer Film Classics: Maurice
by David Greven
McGill-Queen's University Press
208 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781770417427
Wrath of the Dragon
The Real Fights of Bruce Lee
by John Little
ECW Press
352 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781839025419
The Deer Hunter
BFI Classics
by Brad Prager
BFI
120 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781839023484
It's a Wonderful Life
BFI Classics
by Michael Newton
BFI
168 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781839025761
Point Blank
BFI Classics
by Eric G. Wilson
BFI
112 pages — September 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's





OCTOBER



9780762484263
A.K.A. Lucy
The Dynamic and Determined Life of Lucille Ball 
by Sarah Royal
Foreword by Amy Poehler
Running Press
240 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781982176358
Charlie Chaplin vs. America
When Art, Sex, and Politics Collided
 by Scott Eyman
Simon & Schuster
432 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780762481040
**Revised and Expanded Edition**
Christmas in the Movies
35 Classics to Celebrate the Season
by Jeremy Arnold
TCM and Running Press
280 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781838719173
The Cinema of Powell and Pressburger
edited by Nathalie Morris and Claire Smith
BFI
216 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781496838391
C'mon, Get Happy
The Making of Summer Stock
by David Fantle and Tom Johnson
Foreword by Savion Glover
University Press of Mississippi
304 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780228104506
Elvis Remembered
Interviews With the People Who Knew Him Best 
by Shelly Powers
Firefly Books
240 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781496846518
Ferocious Ambition
Joan Crawford's March to Stardom
by Robert Dance
University Press of Mississippi
400 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's





9781922754677
Film Buff
The Ultimate Movie Quiz
by Smith Street Books
Smith Street Gift
200 pages (novelty book) — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble




9781743798416
Grace Kelly
The Illustrated World of a Fashion Icon
by Megan Hess
Hardie Grant Books
192 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780316526005
Head Over Heels: Joanne Woodward and Paul Newman
A Love Affair in Words and Pictures 
by Melissa Newman, 
edited by Andrew Kelly
Voracious
288 pages — October 2023




9780593542972
Hitchcock's Blondes
The Unforgettable Women Behind the Legendary Director's Dark Obsession
by Laurence Leamer
G.P. Putnam's Sons
pages — October 2023




9780307958921
Hollywood and the Movies of the Fifties
The Collapse of the Studio System, the Thrill of Cinerama, and the Invasion of the Ultimate Body Snatcher
by Foster Hirsch
Knopf
672 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780762475209
Lena Horne
Goddess Reclaimed
by Donald Bogle
TCM and Running Press
272 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780785843689
Lucille Ball Treasures
Featuring Memorabilia and Pictures 
by Cindy De La Hoz
Chartwell Books/Quarto Group
176 pages — October 2023




9780785843740
Marilyn Monroe
A Photographic Life 
by Jenna Glatzer
Chartwell Books
176 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble




9781639730766
The Method
How the Twentieth Century Learned to Act
by Isaac Butler
Bloomsbury Publishing
512 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780814347768
Movie-Made Los Angeles
by John Trafton
Wayne State University Press
256 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780231206211
Teen Movies
A Century of American Youth
by Timothy Shary
Wallflower Press
192 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble




9780813197524
They Made the Movies
Conversations with Great Filmmakers 
by James Bawden and Ron Miller
University Press of Kentucky
392 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781803365084
The Wicker Man
The Official Story of the Film
by John Walsh
Titan Books
192 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble




9781839022951
Mean Streets
BFI Classics
by Demetrios Matheou
BFI
112 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781839026065
The Red Shoes
BFI Classics
by Pamela Hutchinson
BFI
112 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781839024498
Rushmore
BFI Classics
by Kristi Irene McKim
BFI
120 pages — October 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's





NOVEMBER




9781909526938
1001 Movie Posters
The Essential Collection 
edited by Tony Nourmand
introduction by Christopher Frayling
Reel Art Press
552 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781636810607
Agnès Varda
Director's Inspiration  
by Agnès Varda
Academy Museum of Motion Pictures
208 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781789099546
Alfred Hitchcock Storyboards
by Tony Lee Moral
Titan Books
144 pages — November 2023




9781476689708
Artie Shaw
Icon of Song
by Barnett Singer and Jesse Read
McFarland
164 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781915310125
Charlot
by Ian Masters
Monsoon Books Pte. Ltd.
336 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble



9781786751331
Cinema of the 70s
101 Iconic Movies
by John H. Foote
Palazzo Editions
224 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781538183571
Elmer Bernstein, Film Composer
An Authorized Biography
by Peter M. Bernstein
Rowman and Littlefield
296 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780063041417
The Fatal Alliance
A Century of War on Film
by David Thomson
Harper
448 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781493053957
Hello, Norma Jeane
The Marilyn Monroe You Didn't Know
by Elisa Jordan
Applause
360 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9780063056954
**Paperback Edition**
Hollywood: The Oral History
by Jeanine Basinger and Sam Wasson
Harper Paperbacks
768 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781476686578
In Search of the Thin Man
Dashiell Hammett, William Powell and the Classic Film Series
by Philip Zwerling
McFarland
227 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's




9781476687889
Mummy Movies
A Comprehensive Guide
by Bryan Senn
McFarland
329 pages — November 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's





DECEMBER



9781476692593
Dueling Harlows
The Race to Bring the Actress's Life to the Silver Screen
by Tom Lisanti
McFarland
183 pages — December 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble




9781681990422
**Updated on sale**
Getting Carter
Ted Lewis and the Birth of British Noir
by Nick Triplow
Soho Syndicate
December 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble — Powell's



9780813198378
**Revised Edition**
John Ford
by Joseph McBride and Michael Wilmington
University Press of Kentucky
346 pages — December 2023
Amazon — Barnes and Noble


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Wednesday, July 12, 2023

Blood on the Moon by Alan K. Rode



Reel West: Blood on the Moon
by Alan K. Rode
University of New Mexico Press
Paperback ISBN: 9780826364692
March 2023
136 pages


“The film transplanted the dark urban environs of the city into the West’s iconography.... Akin to Chandleresque private detective or a returning WWII veteran trudging through the brick alleys and gilded neighborhoods of the apocryphal urban noir environment, Mitchum travels through a similarly alienating domain, where loyalties shift and things are assuredly not what they initially seem.” — Alan K. Rode


Robert Wise's Blood on the Moon (1948) has had a bit of a renaissance in recent years. It's come to be appreciated as a notable film of its era—one that strikes a perfect balance between its two genres: the Western and the Film Noir. Based on the novel by Luke Short, the film stars Robert Mitchum as Jim Garry, a gunslinger who is hired by his old buddy Tate (Robert Preston) to settle a dispute between Tate and a cattle rancher. Jim falls for the rancher's headstrong daughter Amy (Barbara Bel Geddes) and comes to realize that Tate is actually scheming to steal the rancher's cattle from under him. The story unfolds like a Film Noir detective story with a notable Western backdrop, a thrilling bar brawl and a climactic shoot-out.

In 2020 the Warner Archive Collection released a Blu-Ray edition of Blood on the Moon that garnered much excitement from the classic film community. In 2023 the film was screened at the TCM Classic Film Festival to a packed theater. Blood on the Moon was introduced by film historian Alan K. Rode who recently published a book solely about the movie.

Blood on the Moon by Alan K. Rode is part of the University of New Mexico Press' Reel West series in which each book focuses on one particular film from the Western genre. This slim volume on Blood on the Moon offers readers an opportunity to learn about the background of the film, the key players involved and its place in film history.

The book manages to be comprehensive without bogging down the text with superfluous information. The introduction examines the context and importance of the film. The following chapters details the pre-production, in-production and post-production life of Blood on the Moon while giving the reader background on the notable individuals involved. We learn about the author of the original novel, Luke Short, screenwriter Lillie Hayward, home studio RKO, director Robert Wise, cinematographer Nicholas Musuraca, actors Robert Mitchum, Barbara Bel Geddes, Phyllis Thaxter, Robert Preston, Walter Brennan and more.

Some interesting facts from the book:

  • The title Blood on the Moon is a reference to a “hunter’s moon” which appears red or to a total lunar eclipse. It “has been considered a foreboding signal or a portent of doom.”
  • One of the last movies green-lighted for RKO by Dore Schary before Howard Hughes took over.
  • The movie rights to Luke Short's novel Gunman's Chance were bought by RKO. It wasn't developed until director Robert Wise and Theron Wrath came across several versions of the script in the story department and realized that it " a viable film property that had been mishandled by RKO.”
  • "Preston and Mitchum were a simpatico team who worked well together and enjoyed playing practical jokes on Barbara Bel Geddes and Phyllis Thaxter.”
  • “The leading actors were selected by Dore Schary, but Wise cast all the supporting players…”
  • The film had a bigger budget than other Westerns produced by RKO. It still went over budget due to inhospitable weather.


Author Alan K. Rode's Reel West: Blood on the Moon is an informative and engaging read. This concise book gives the reader plenty to chew on without overloading them with too much research. I recommend this book only to readers who are familiar with the movie as you'll need knowledge of the plot and the key players in order to appreciate the information presented to you.




This is my second book review for this year's Classic Film Reading Challenge.


I purchased Blood on the Moon from Larry Edmund's Bookshop this past April. My copy is autographed by the author.

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Sunday, July 2, 2023

The Classic Film Collective: All for Beauty

 This was originally published in the former The Classic Film Collective Patreon.

 


All for Beauty
Makeup and Hairdressing in Hollywood's Studio Era
by Adrienne L. McLean
Rutgers University Press
Paperback ISBN: 9780813563589
326 pages


Ever since I started following makeup artist and historian Erin Parsons on TikTok (watch her full-length vintage makeup collection tour on YouTube, it’s amazing!), I’ve been interested in learning more about makeup in old Hollywood. So when I saw that Rutgers University Press was publishing Adrienne L. McLean’s new book on studio era makeup and hairdressing, it was a no brainer that this book would find its way into my research library. 

All for Beauty: Makeup and Hairdressing in Hollywood’s Studio Era by Adrienne L. McLean is a scholarly text that examines the business of makeup and hairdressing within Hollywood (silent film era to the late 1960s), the emergence of artists within the industry and the techniques implemented. McLean primarily focuses on “straight makeup” which is to say it excludes costume makeup that is made to exaggerate, depict a historical period or to transform an actor into a fantastical creature. We’re talking foundation, blush, lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, false eyelashes, some contouring, body makeup. Hairdressing is less of a focus but the author does examine the use of wigs in film and how some of the top makeup artists began as wigmakers.

McLean’s book is heady stuff and not a light read. If you're interested in the subject matter, I recommend reading the book a little differently. The final chapter Cosmetics, Coiffures, Characterization is the one you should start with first. This is where movie star makeup is examined at length in terms of intent, method and end result. Then if you find yourself wanting more information on the business side of things or want to learn about the individual artists, then read the introduction and first two chapters.

The author’s intent with the book was to examine, in her words, “why people in studio-era Hollywood movies, usually but not always stars, look so unnaturally perfect on the screen.” Starting in the silent era, there was a pushback against exaggerated makeup on screen. There was a shift towards a more natural look but one that depicted an actress (and actors too) as perfectly flawless. McLean also discusses at length how patriarchy, capitalism, sexism and racism were the strongest forces behind makeup and hairdressing as a business and as a science in the industry. Key figures include: Max Factor, the Westmores, Sydney Guilaroff, Vic Meadows, William Tuttle, Robert Stephanoff, Dot Ponedel, Jack Dawn, Ben Nye, etc.

There are a numerous color and black and white photographs throughout as well as some makeup charts from specific movie productions. It’s a relatively short book at around 300 pages (229 pages of actual reading material before you get to the backmatter). But it's quite dense as its packed with lots of information.


Here are some interesting quotes from the book:


“Motion pictures are often invoked as major factors in turning ordinary women’s cosmetic use into normative, indeed indispensable, components of public femininity rather than signs of moral looseness or depravity.” 

“any application of color or shading was likely to read as a dark blotch or a stark line. Filmmakers working with orthochromatic were therefore unable to employ either foundation or rouge to represent basic states like robust health, a tan, youth, or a bloom on the cheeks. (As Kevin Brownlow remarks, silent actors are ‘strangely pale; there are no olive skins or tanned complexions’ because of the amount of greasepaint and powder used.)” 

Robert Stack wrote in his autobiography “of the efforts studio head Jack Pierce and the ‘makeup boys’ at Universal made to turn him into a ‘young Robert Taylor’ for his first starring role, opposite Deanna Durbin, in 1939, which included darkening and straightening Stack’s hair and giving him a hair lace widow’s peak.”

“Lauren Bacall, a former model, had to elicit Howard Hawks’s help to keep Perc Westmore from straightening her teeth, plucking her eyebrows, shaving her hairline and in general ‘redesign[ing her] face’ for her first test in 1943 for To Have and Have Not.” [Hawks wanted her exactly as she was.]

“It was the first stop of the day for most if not all Hollywood actors and makeup artists and hairdressers became some stars’ trusted, and often influential, friends and companions. This was certainly the case with Rita Hayworth and Robert Schiffer and hairdresser Helen Hunt; Barbara Stanwyck and her hairdresser Hollis Barnes; and Marlene Dietrich, Joan Blondell, and Judy Garland and Dot Ponedel.”

“According to [Donald] Bogle, actor Herb Jeffries, who ‘had experimented with makeup for Black Americans,’ also had a substantial impact on the looks of [Lena] Horne and Dorothy Dandridge in their films and personal appearances, although white makeup artists worked on both.”

Cary Grant made himself very tan so he could avoid the use of cosmetics for his films. For North by Northwest (1959), “Eva Marie Saint had to wear foundation, according to [makeup artist William] Tuttle, ‘probably two or three shades darker than we’d put on the average man to get a closer relationship between the two.’”

"[Esther Williams] had to look perfectly groomed underwater as well as on dry land… The body makeup that WIlliam Tuttle eventually settled upon for Williams, a mica-laced powder with the salubrious name of Texas Dirt… Ultimately simple Vaseline mixed with baby oil (Sydney Guilaroff later claimed it was olive oil) was used for the maintenance of her hair in studio tanks and pools."

“One of the most famous of Lena Horne’s stories about her early days at MGM in the 1940s has to do with the Max Factor company’s development of a ‘Light Egyptian’ Pan-Cake especially for her (there were other shades of ‘Egyptian’ as well), which Horne claims was instead used on white actors (like Ava Gardner as Julie LaVerne in Show Boat) who were taking roles that Horne herself was not allowed to play."

“The long scar on her left cheek that Carole Lombard suffered as the result of a 1926 automobile accident was acknowledged in interviews and fan magazines at the time, but disguised by makeup as well as careful framing in her films and publicity photos.”

In Mary Astor’s book A Life on Film she wrote “There was eyebrow shadow, brown, and mascara, black and then something that was called ‘cosmetique,’ a black cake of guck that was melted over a spirit lamp and then applied to the ends of the eyelashes with a match or a toothpick. This was ‘beading’: It accomplished what false eyelashes do today…”

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